Embroidering machine



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No. 461,737. Patented Oct. 20, 1891.

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EMBRUIDERING MACHINE.

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EMBROIDERING MACHINE.

No. 461,737. Patented Oct. 20, 1891.

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No. 461,737. Patented Oct. 20, 1891 me ams uns co., moro-mno., msmna'ron, n. c.

UNITED STATES PATENT OEEICE.

EMIL OORNELY AND ROBERT OORNELY, OF PARIS, FRANCE.

EMBROIDERING-MACHINE.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 461,737, dated October 20, 1891.

Application filed February 27,1891. Serial No. 388,099. (No model.) Patented in France November 20, 1888, No. 194.216 and in England November 24, 1888, No. 17,128.

To @ZZ whom, t may concern.-

Be it known that we, EMIL OORNELY and ROBERT COENELY, residents of Paris, France, have invented new and useful Improvements in Overseamin g and Embroidering Machines, (patented in part in England November 24, 1888, No. 17,128, and in part in France November 20, 1888, No. 194,216,) which are fully set forth in the following specification.

The present invention has reference to the production of a novel seam and to the appliances for producing the saine. The essential characteristics of the new scam are two parallel rows of chain-stitch es, a thread wo und spirally around the two rows on one side of the fabric, and another thread crossing back and forth on the other side of the fabric and interlacing with the parallel chain-stitches. One of the devices hereinafter described, to wit, the tension-weight for the additional thread, is described in British Patent No. 17,128, granted to us November 24, 1888, and in addition of November 9, 1889, to French Patent No. 194,216, dated November 20,1888.

Other features of our invention, as particularly pointed out in the claims, have not been patented before in any country.

The seam is applicable to uniting of two edges in a strong and at the same time ornamental manner. It is also serviceable as an embroidery seam, and when so used its ornamental appearance may be enhanced by the introduction of a cord, as hereinafter described, and in other ways. The essential devices for the production of such aseam are two needles and two co-operating loopers for making the parallel rows of stitches, a thread-carrier adapted to rotate in a path encircling the two needles, and an oscillatory thread-carrier for intel-lacing the cross-thread with the two lines of stitches. Vhen applied, as hereinafter described, to a universal-feed machine, it is further necessary toarrange and combine the stitch-forming mechanism and the thread-carrier with the cran k-handle of the universal feed in such manner that all the devices which co-operate in forming the seam willk change their positions in accordance with every change in the direction of the feed,

The invention includes other details of construction which are useful in practically carrying out the invention.

In the accompanying drawings we have illustrated means for making the new seam applied to a sewing or embroidery machine of well-known type, such as described in numerous prior patents of Emil Oornely and others. Reference may be had to Patents No. 228,445, dated June 8, 1880; No. 262,742, dated August 15, 1882; No. 392,010, dated October 30, 1888, and No. 405,147, dated June 11, 1889.

In the drawings, Figures I and II are diagrams showing on an enlarged scale the two sides of the seam. Fig. III is an elevation of the machine, partly in section; Fig. IV, a similar view showing certain improvements not shown in Fig. III. Fig. V is an elevation of the head of the machine shown in Fig. 1V. Figs. VI and VII are details of certain parts thereof. Fig. VIII is'a vertical section, partly in elevation, of parts beneath the work-plate. Fig. IXis a plan view of certain operative parts beneath the work plate. Figs. X, XI, and XII are vie-ws of detached parts. Fig. XIII is a Vertical cross-section through the axis of the needle-bar. Figs. XIV to XIX are detail views, Fig. XIV being a vertical section and cross-section of the needle-bar holder, Fig. XV a cross-section through the nipple-tube, Fig. XVI front and edge views of a slide for causing the threadcarrier to rise and fall, Fig. XVII a diagram representing the introduction .of a cord into the seam, and Figs. XVIII and XIX views illustrating the formation of the seam shown in Fig. XVII.

In Figs. I and II, g represents parallel lines of chain-stitches, around which, on the upper side of the fabric, is wound a thread n. Beneath the fabric a thread 7o crosses back and forth and interlaces with the chainstitches at the points y, where the thread of said stitches passes through the fabric. The

lines of stitches g are produced by two needle-hooks A B, Figs. VI and XIII, co-operating with two loopers h t', and the thread e is wound around these two lines of stitches by means of a rotating thread-carrier C, sup'- IOO plied with thread from a spool 7e. The parts are constructed and operate substantially as described in Letters Patent No. 302,010, above referred to. The loopers L t' are supported on a pitman w, which receives a reciprocating movement from an eccentric u,

whichin turn is actuated through screw-gears D and I. Gear D is carried by rod 10, which. is reciprocated by pinion- 5 on the main shaft through gear G, (t'wice the diameter of pinion 5,) eccentric 90, pit'man F, and bell-crank lever 8, pivoted at 9. (See Figs. III, VII, and X.) The loopers are in this machine inclosed in a tube P, and the latter is surrounded by a tubular case R, secured to gearwheel V, and to the top of case R is attached the work-plate N, having two perforations for two needles. The loopers and work-plate thus follow every movement of wheel V. The latter gears with wheel 28, which is connected through pinions 27 26 25 23, shaft 24, pinions 22 and 10 with the feedoperating crank-handle IV. This connection of the loopers and work-plate with the handle of the universal feed is not new, broadly.

The oscillating` th read-carriera: is, as shown in Figs. VIII and XII, carried by a pinion e, which rests and thus turns freelyon a shoulder of the case R. It is supplied with thread,

as indicated by broken line 2,from a spool Q,-

which is carried by wheel V. The end of carrier is level with or a little below the top of the work-plate, and by its oscillation in the path indicated in Fig. XI it interlocks its threads with the needle-threads, connecting together the two lines of stitches, as shown in Fig. II. Zllu-ead-carrier :c receives its oscillatory motion from a pinion 11 on the main shaft, Fig. III, which drives a wheel 12 on shaft 13. The latter has at its lower end a crank 1i, from which motion is communicated to pitman 15, bell-crank lever 16, pivoted at 17, rod 18, screw-gears X Y, and pinions 3, 4, and e. (See Figs. VIII and IX.)

The pinion 23, already referred to in describing the connections between the crank-handle IV and the loopers h fi, is carried by a sleeve'24, through which rod 18 passes. Rod 18 can reciprocate freely therein, but is connected therewith, as by a feather, so that it turns with said sleeve. -Consequently the pinion z, carrying the thread-carrier fr, partakes of the motion of the crank-handle and shifts its position in accordance with all changes in the direction of the feed.

The thread-carrier C is attached to the hub 8i of pinion G, and is rotated from a pinion 47 on the main shaft, Flg. III, through gearing 8A-@50, 51, 52, 53, 54, 55, and 56, the latter engaging with wheel G. This thread-carrier is connected with the crankhandle IV as heretofore. Ashaft 29 is connected in the usual way (the connections not being shown herein) with said handle, and this shaft is connected with carrier G through pinions 30 31 and shaft 32, cross-shaft 57, and its pinion 51, which communicates motion to pinions 52 53, the., as above described. Pinions 55 56 and wheel G may be disposed as in Figs. IIIV and XIII or as in Figs. IV and V.

The shaft- 29, above referred to, communi- Cates motion through shaft 32, arm 33, stud 331., crank 35, tube 36, pinions 37 and 38, Figs. III and XIII, and pinions 39, 40, el, 42, 43, and 44 .0 the tube 79, in which needle-bar tube 75 plays. The latter is thus directed by the crank-handle IV.

The needle-bars and 71 are secured to the holder 72 by means of screws 73 7l, Figs. XIII and XIV, and the holder 72 is secured to tube 75 by screw 70. The projection 77 in the hub o'f pinion 4A takes into a corresponding recess in tube 75, and thus turns the latter in obedience 1o the movements of the crank-handle IV. The nipple-tube 78 also receives motion from pinion 44, being flattened at its upper end, where it slides between the flattened forked ends 79 of the hub of said pinion, as shown in Figs. XIII and XV.

The means for causing thread-carrier C to ascend or descend (shown in Patent No. 370,830, dated January 2t, 1888,) have been modified in the following manner: A slide 83, Figs. XIII aud XVI, moves freely in a groove of hub 8lE of wheel G, and its lower end bears upon an annular cam 86, secured to the nipple-tube 78 by screw 87. Slide 83 is pressed against cam 80 by the action of spring 89, and the motion of nipple-tube, together with the shape of the cam 86, causes the thread-carrier C to rise and fall as it moves around the needle.

In employing a central spool K like the one described in Letters Patent No. 405,147, of June 11, 1880, the action of rotating threadcarrier C not only draws the thread from said spool, which is necessary .for the production of the seam, but it also causes said spool to participate in its rotation around the needle. Upon stopping the machine by'its well-known stop-motion (shown in Fig. IV) the spool c0ntinues to turn to a certain extent., and thus a IOO ITO

loose loop of thread is detached from it and hangs down. This loop is liable to become entangled with some part of the machine, and thus to arrest the work. To prevent this inconvenience we employ a brake-lever T, which is pivoted at d, Fig. IV, to the frame of the machine and which is connected at one end with the stop-motion lever L by means of the connecting-rod S, while the other end of lever T overhangs the spool K, thus leaving the latter free to turn with the thread-carrier C; butwhen the machine is to be stopped the crank-handle W, Fig. IV, is pressed upward, and with it lever L and its connecting-rod S, and the lever T by its weight drops down upon spool K' and stops it instantly. The end of lever T may be provided with an india-rubber covering orsimilar substance m to produce friction. On setting the machine in motion the crank-handle IV is pressed downward and the lever T is raised again from the spool K.

For the tension of the thread of spool K we employ a weight V, Fig. IV and VI, which is hung onto a stud p and which bears upon the top part of said spool. The weight'U is provided on its rear part with a thin stem r, on which a counter-weight q can be fixed in any position, so as to regulate the pression of the weight U upon the bobbin.

Whenthe machine is to be employed only as a limited edging-machine, it can be much simplified, as then the feed need turn only about one-third of a turn and the needles, the nipple, and the rotating thread-carrier neednot turn at all with the crank-handle W. The machine for this purpose is represented in Figs. IV, VI, and VII, in which similar parts bear the same letters as in the Inachine with universal feed motion.

l The double looper h t' is secured to a lever 57, Fig. VII, to which suitable motion is imparted by the action of the crank-pin 5S of the pinion 59, While its fork-shaped end is guided rectilineally by the stud 60. The pinion 59 receives an oscillating motion from the toothed sector 66, and each of the loopers h and i describes an oscillating motion around its needle in the line of an ellipse 6l, Fig. VII, and thus winds its thread around the corresponding needle. A similar motion is given to the thread-carrier 0:, which lays its thread transverselyinto the stitches on the under side ofthe material. It is secured to the lever 63, which is actuated by the eccentric-stud 62 of pinion 64, the latter being actuated by the toothed sector 66, and the end of lever 63 is guided rectilineally by stud 65. The toothed sector 66 is operated from the main shaft of the machine through pinion 5,Fig. IV, which drives wheel 6, of 4double its diameter, and (by means of an eccentric on its shaft) pitman F, lever 69, connecting-rod 68, and pitinan 67, the latter being linked to a lever of the toothed sector 66. It is evident that also the same ornamental seams can be produced on this machine as on the one shown and described in Letters Patent No 392,010, of October 30,1888. Acordcan also be introduced in the work, as represented in Figs. XVIII and XIX by passing a cord 8S between or behindl the needles A B through cording-guide 9l, XIX, which will then be interlaced in the threads, and which, according to the tension given to one or to the other of the needle! threads, will appear on the edge or on the center line of the seam and produce an ornamental work, as represented on an enlarged scale at Fig. XVII.

Having now fully described our said invention, what we claim is- 1.-. In a sewing or embroiderng machine, the combination of two needles, the co-operating loopers and their actuating mechanism for making two lines of stitches, a rotary thread-carrier, and mechanism for rotating it in a path encircling both needles, and an oscillatory threadcarrier and its actuating mechanism, substantially as described.

2. In a sewing or embroidering machine provided with universal feed mechanism, the combination of two needles and two co-operating loopers, the rotary thread-carrier, the oscillatory thread carrier, and actuating mechanism for the several devices, all of them being connected, as specified, with the feedoperating handle, substantially as described.

3. The combination, with two needles and their co-operatingloopers, of a thread-carrier arranged beneath the work-plate and having its delivering end in a slot or opening therein, and mechanism, as specified, for oscillating said carrier in front of the two needles, thereby connecting the two lines of stitches on the under side of the fabric, substantially as described.

4. The combination, with the stitch-forming mechanism, the revolving thread-carrier and its bobbin or spool, of stop mechanism for arresting the operation of the machine, and a brake-lever connected with said stop mechanism and adapted to be thrown thereby into action upon said bobbin or spool, substantially as described.

5. The combination of the stitch-forming mechanism, the rotary thread carrier, the spool or bobbin therefor encircling the needle-tube, and a tension-weight acting upon said spool or bobbin, substantially as described. v

In testimony whereof we have signed this specification in the presence of two subscribing witnesses.

EMIL CORNELY. ROBERT OORNELY.

Witnesses:

ROBT. M. HooPER, P. T. S. FULLoR.

IOO 

